The man in black fled across the desert, and the gunslinger followed.

You know, I was trying to find a good quote or reference to use as a title for this blog post. Since this post is supposed to be the “I’m finished!”-post, I needed something to signify that. I thought about going the Borat route, Great Success!, or perhaps a Douglas Adams quote (you know which one I mean). Both of those would relay the success of the project, and the fact that it’s finished.

But that’s not how these things work. Anyone that’s ever truly dedicated themselves to build something knows that.

Instead I went for this one. I’m not going to explain it, since that would ruin one of the best book series ever written, but should you have read them all, you’d know. You’d understand.


Anyways, here’s the video I’ve been promising! It’s a bit of a mashup, showing a quick fly-by of the machine, some 3d ballnose profiling and some straight up end mill slotting action. Pure porno.When you’re done watching, go read all the blog posts if you haven’t already. They’re fun. Everyone that’s read them all will agree with you. (Only I’ve done it that I know of so far, and you can’t disagree with me until you’re at least nr 2).

You can find all of the blog posts linked here.

8 Responses to The man in black fled across the desert, and the gunslinger followed.
  1. Jp says:

    Great build log! I really enjoyed the read about your successes and failures. Also I have to commend you on your successful build of a very nice and robust looking machine!

    About how much did you spend on your machine? If I had to guess I would say €2-3k …am I close?

    • Tumblebeer says:

      I try not to think of how much it cost, since I’m a student with pretty much 0 budget. But yeah, somewhere around 2.5k. Nice guess!

      I’m glad you liked it, though it doesn’t have much on the stuff you’ve got on your site. That’s some pretty impressive Solidworks-work. :)

  2. KM says:

    Not just the mill you buit, but the fact that you made it in your kitchen! And that your girlfriend handeled that as well !
    Far best diy-cnc-router I have seen.
    To me that 2.5k sounds great job as well, I think this would cost nearly 8-10k bought commercially.
    (As an structural engineer) I have a question about the x-rail location. Why you located it on top of the frame instead of on the external side of the frame like 90% of commercial routers have?
    I see that this way you are optimizing the width of the machine but doubt that you made it for that reason. I’m planing to build one similar to this but I’m horrified about that drilling job with my not so professional tools, and thinking of the option to get some parts cnc-drilled… How the heck you managed to keep the precision (with your tools available in your kitchen workshop)?? -to install all the HIWINs and screws streight and perpendicular ?

    • Tumblebeer says:

      Glad you liked it! It’s been working perfectly so far.
      About the x-rail: It was partly a matter of space. I used 60mm profiles for the frame, and I couldn’t have fit both the ballscrew and the rail on the same side. Partly it was a matter of simplicity of building, (just dimensional stuff). Mostly though, I wanted to keep the moment arm (or lever? I actually don’t know the correct terminology here) as short at possible. I figured the rail itself could be seen as a sort of fulcrum, and I wanted to keep that as close as possible to the cutting forces. Placing it on top gave me a couple of cm. I could also combine a bracing of the side plates with a mounting for the bearings. I’m not a mechanical engineer so I go mostly by gut feeling on these things. In retrospect, I still think this is a good way to do it, but it does mean I have to do some extra work in keeping it clean.

      Yeah, that drilling. Don’t get me wrong, I usually enjoy drilling in the kitchen (oooh, I just said that!), but this was a nightmare. In the end, I had to drill many of the holes a millimeter extra large and dial it straight after assembling it. It took some time, but according to my cheap dial indicator, it’s pretty straight in all directions.

  3. KM says:

    I agree, shorter is better and you could always protect your rails with those rubber accordion dust covers. Maybe you are not mec engineer but you have good feeling! I was planing to use higher side profiles and to place the screws under linear rails, milling the bearing block 10mm into the gantry side plate to fit in that 30mm space I get from 20mm HIWIN . But since I would like to make my x-axis little bit longer than yours I have doubts I could make it with 16mm screws….. I have few questions to you, I couldn’t find info online: Considering the high capasity of 20mm HWIN, I feel that the attachment of rails to aluminium profile is the week link. I guess you were mounting the rails to profile using those t-slot nuts, right? Is it really rigid enough? The slot is not flexing? Another question: Do you experience any whipping on your screws when driving faster? Thank’s

    • Tumblebeer says:

      The mounting isn’t really very rigid, I’ve been meaning to do something about that but haven’t got around to it yet. A quick and dirty fix would be to simply drill and tap straight in to the core of the profiles, that would give the screw about 1.5-2cm of threads.
      According to the maths, my critical speed of these 16mm screws is well above what I can drive them, but in reality one of the x axis screws isn’t prefectly straight and starts whipping at around 3-4000mm/min. On the other hand, my y-axis screw is only slightly shorter and is completely free from whipping at 15k mm/min, so I guess it’s mainly up to a bad screw on that x axis. Should I build it again I might have gone for the larger diameter screws, they have higher inertia but my accelerations are pretty good even with shitty drivers and a mismatched PSU. Speaking of that, I just got 3 AM882H drivers and a 70V PSU in the mail. I’ll be posting an update on how the machine responds to that upgrade when I get around to installing it.

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